House of the Sun

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According to Hawaiian mythology, the demigod Maui once lassoed the sun at the summit of the island’s main volcano. He only released it when it promised to slow its daily path across his island. The grateful Hawaiians named their island after this demigod, and the volcano became known as Haleakala – House of the Sun.

Maui

Maui, with an area of ​​1,885 km², is the second largest island in the state and, after Oahu, the most popular. The construction boom and tourist activity spilled over from Waikiki to Maui – with its trendy beach and surf scene, excellent golf courses, and vibrant nightlife. Thanks to its size, the island has handled the influx of tourists well.

Key Size Metrics

  • Total Area: ~727–728 square miles (1,8831 –  1,886 km)
  • Dimensions: 48 miles long x 26 miles wide.
  • Ranking: 2nd largest in Hawaii, 17th largest in the US.
  • Coastline: ~120 miles of accessible coastline (though total shoreline length is longer).
  • Highest Elevation: 10,023 feet (3,055 m) at the summit of Haleakalā.
  • Population: Over 150,000 residents (as of 2020 census), with significant, high-volume tourism fluctuatio
  • Dimensions: 48 miles long x 26 miles wide.
  • Ranking: 2nd largest in Hawaii, 17th largest in the US.
  • Coastline: ~120 miles of accessible coastline (though total shoreline length is longer).
  • Highest Elevation: 10,023 feet (3,055 m) at the summit of Haleakalā.
  • Population: Over 150,000 residents (as of 2020 census), with significant, high-volume tourism fluctuation.

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Maui Geology

A narrow isthmus, barely 10 km wide, connects the island’s two massive mountain ranges: the imposing Haleakala Crater, towering over 3,000 m, and the gentler West Maui Mountains. There, and on the gently sloping hillsides, lies fertile red soil, the foundation of Maui’s thriving agriculture. Peculiar fruits, sugarcane, pineapples, and vegetables are cultivated here, and even wine.

Further up the highlands lie ranches and cool forests. Finally, at the very top, on the summit of Haleakala, often shrouded in thick clouds, rare native plant species like the silversword thrive in the barren lava rock.

The long beaches are lively but not overcrowded. Hotels and apartment complexes are concentrated in two areas: Kaanapali and the coast from Kihei to Makena. In the vast hinterland, on the north coast and in the mountains, nature reigns supreme with waterfalls, rainforests and volcanic ash deserts.

Short History

Maui was one of the most popular islands even in earlier times. When Kamehameha I defeated the army of the King of Maui at the end of the 18th century, he chose Lahaina on the sunny west coast of the island as the capital of his new kingdom. Long ago, Wailuku on the north coast took over the role of capital. But for visitors, Lahaina remains the most beautiful place on the island, with historical sites, good restaurants, and vibrant street life.

It also makes a good base for excursions. Despite all the allure of the beaches, you should at least take a trip to the summit of Haleakala and a day trip to the lush, tropical north coast near Hana.

Haleakala Crater by hhach

Haleakala National Park

The Haleakala Crater at the summit looms large over the mighty mountain at night: at approximately 11 km long and 1000 m deep, it is one of the largest craters in the world.

At the viewpoint at the end of Highway 378, an eerily silent lunar landscape unfolds before you: multicolored cinder cones, small craters, and solidified lava flows in all shades of red, gray, and brown. The mountain has been dormant since its last minor eruptions around 1790. However, measurements indicate that the volcano is still rumbling deep within. The 110 km² National Park encompasses the entire crater and extends along the southeast flank down to the sea.

Haleakala habitat

It provides habitat for the rare Nenegans and the spectacular silversword, a plant found only here on the summit of Haleakala. For most of the day, the mountain is shrouded in clouds, but at sunrise and sunset, the lava rocks glow a deep red, and the view of the surrounding islands is unobstructed. Remember to bring warm clothing! There is no accommodation within the park, but hikers can stay at campsites and in cabins.

Places to Eat and Drink in Maui

Maui offers a diverse culinary scene ranging from high-end, oceanfront dining to affordable local spots, featuring fresh seafood, Hawaiian specialties, and tropical cocktails. Top-rated, upscale options include:

  • Casanova – Good cappuccino in the deli in the morning, solid Italian cuisine and good fish in the restaurant for lunch and dinner.
  • Haliimaile General Store – Ideal for a stylish dinner after sunset on the crater rim. The old general store is now a trendy restaurant with excellent American cuisine.
Lahaina Beach Resort

Leisure and sports in Maui

Maui is a premier destination for leisure and sports, offering year-round, world-class water activities like surfing at Ka’anapali Beach, snorkeling at Molokini Crater, and kayaking. Land-based adventures include hiking in Haleakala National Park, ATV tours, ziplining, and golfing, complemented by cultural experiences like outrigger canoeing and Friday town parties.

Bike Tours

There’s a 60 km downhill trail from the summit of Haleakala to the coast. Renting a bike on your own is more enjoyable and affordable than the many guided tours offered. The Haleakala Bike Co. rents bikes and roof racks. You can take your time on the downhill ride all day.

Hiking

Over 50 km of hiking trails crisscross the crater. The Halemauu Trail leads 1.6 km to the northern crater rim and then about 5 km into the crater. From the end of the highway, the steep Sliding Sands Trail descends the southern rim into the crater and continues to the eastern side. From there, you can hike to the coast in a day.

Pony Express Tours

Pony Express Tours operates in Upcountry Maui, specifically offering guided horseback tours across the historic Haleakala Ranch. While they previously explored Haleakala National Park, they currently focus on rides that showcase views of the crater, surrounding valleys, and neighboring islands from ranch land.

Hana

Hana, Hāna is a remote, tranquil town on the eastern coast of Maui renowned for its lush, “Old Hawaii” charm, stunning, black sand beaches, and the scenic, winding Hana Highway. Today a sleepy ranch town, Hana was once an important Hawaiian settlement and the site of bloody battles.

King Kaahumanu, the favorite wife of Kamehameha I, was born here in 1768. After the king’s death, she abolished the all-encompassing Kapu system, which was based on taboos. To this day, a high percentage of Hana’s 700 residents are of Hawaiian descent.

Food & Drink in Hana

Hana, Maui, offers a casual, locally sourced dining scene focused on food trucks, roadside stands, and fresh, coastal flavors rather than upscale dining. Key spots include Hana Farms for wood-fired pizza and produce, Thai Food by Pranee, Braddah Hutts BBQ for ribs/chicken, and Auntie Sandy’s for famous banana bread. Hana Ranch Restaurant offers salads, fish, and Japanese cuisine served on the veranda overlooking the ocean.

Getting In and Around Hana

The small Hana Cultural Center, located above the black sand beach in Hana Bay, documents the region’s history with old photographs. It also displays Hawaiian quilts and Kapu. The numerous gardens in Hana are also worth seeing. The largest and most beautiful is Kahanu Gardens on Ulaino Road, in a magnificent coastal location.

“The journey is the destination.” This applies to nothing better than the winding, scenic route of Highway 360 along Maui’s northeast coast, overgrown with dense jungle.

For long stretches, no houses come into view; every small side valley conceals waterfalls and tranquil pools. Over 54 bridges, the two-lane highway stretches approximately 80 km along the coast. But don’t underestimate the distance: the round trip from the west side of the islandtakes a full day.

Lava Caves and Falls

The most beautiful spots from west to east include Twin Falls and Waikamoi Falls, two waterfalls deep in the jungle with idyllic swimming pools; the wave-swept Keanae Peninsula and Waianapanapa State Park, where the ocean crashes against a jet-black beach. A trail leads to lava caves, one of which can only be reached underwater—a feature that particularly appeals to couples.

Oheo Pools by rustygage

Oheo Pools

South of Hana, Highway 31 deteriorates, and rental car companies no longer permit driving on it. However, the drive to Kipahulu is definitely worthwhile: Small plantation gardens alternate with dense jungle, often offering magnificent views of the rocky coastline and cascading waterfalls that tumble down the rain-soaked eastern slopes of Haleakala.

Especially beautiful is a detour, only about 5 km from Hana, on Hano’o Road to Hatoa Bay, a picture-perfect beach cove. The highlight of the route is Oheo Gulch with the Oheo Pools, a nature reserve belonging to Haleakala National Park.

Several streams flow down from the mountains here, creating picturesque waterfalls and small pools amidst lush jungle vegetation. The Seven Sacred Pools, as these unfortunately often overcrowded pools are also known, are a series of terraced pools sloping down to the sea, and are very popular for swimming. Above the road, you can reach several waterfalls and other secluded swimming pools via hiking trails.

Booking at Bamboo Valley Inn Hotel and Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows

A tropical dream with flower-draped huts just steps from Hana Bay. Enthusiastic visitors often rave about the town as Heavenly Hana, and this luxurious South Pacific resort with its small, plantation-style bungalows truly lives up to its name.

Kahului / Wailuku

This twin city, now a single large urban area with approximately 60,000 inhabitants, is the island’s economic center.The local population lives and works here; tourist facilities are scarce. Kahului, founded in 1948 as a reed-covered settlement, lies on the wide coastal plain along Kahului Bay. Today, it is a characterless conurbation with shopping malls and the airport.

Via Kaahumanu Avenue, you can quickly reach the older Wailuku, the island’s capital, at the foot of the West Maui Mountains. Market Street in the town center exudes a somewhat faded charm with pawn shops, small stores, and rustic cafes.

The area is very popular with surfers who take advantage of the good winds on the beaches of the north coast. A landmark of Wailuku is the Kaahutanu Church, built in 1876, where hymns are still sung in Hawaiian every Sunday.

Sights worth seeing

In central Maui, Kahului and Wailuku offer a wide range of cultural, ecological and historical attractions. Highlights include the breathtaking ʻIao Needle Lookout Trail, the lush Maui Nui Botanic Garden, historic Wailuku Village and the informative Maui Arts & Cultural Center. The Maui Swap Meet and Kanaha Beach Park are popular shopping and recreational destinations.

Bailey House Museum

A unique historical exhibition. Small, but well-located in an old missionary house. One of Duke Kahanamoku’s old surfboards—not made of plastic, but of redwood—is also on display.

PHOTO: Numerous waterfalls cascade down the eastern flank of Haleakala.

Booking Hotel in Kahului

Lahaina

The Hawaiian name of this old whaling and plantation town on the west coast means “merciless sun.” And merciless, too, is the tourist marketing of the town and the adjacent Kaanapali Beach area to the north, where large hotels line the shore. Nevertheless, the town has retained its charm: Old wooden houses line Front Street, and in front of the photogenic Pioneer Inn at the harbor, surfers and yachties mingle. And when the sun sets picturesquely behind the old whaling ship, a deep red glow over the sea, one is reconciled with Lahaina once again.

Lahaina Shores Beach Resort
Lahaina Shores Beach Resort by Alex

The most important whaling port in the Pacific

The sunshine and the beautiful location at the foot of the West Maui Mountains were what first prompted Kamehameha I to relocate his court to Lahaina. Later, the town became the most important whaling port in the Pacific. After 1860, however, whaling declined, and Lahaina fell into a deep slumber, from which only modern tourism awakened it.All that remains of the old whaling glory are the whales, which today are once again spending the winter in increasing numbers in the shallow waters between Maui and Lanai.

Lahaina Highlights

Visitors can visit adjacent West Maui attractions, such as the famed Banyan Tree (check local access status), Mala Wharf for snorkeling, and the picturesque Lahaina Jodo Mission. Nearby attractions include Kaanapali Beach, the Kapalua Coastal Trail, and whale watching tours.

Baldwin House

The exhibits in Lahaina’s oldest house illustrate the life of the physician and missionary Dwight Baldwin. Using the “Lahaina Historical Guide,” available in all hotels, you can take a walking tour of the historical sites: the houses of the missionaries and captains, the old jail, and the magnificent banyan tree planted in the town center.

Wo Hing Temple

This colonial house, built in 1912, was once a meeting place for the Chinese community in Lahaina. Today, in addition to exhibits about immigrants from China, an original Taoist altar can be seen upstairs. Historical films about Hawaii by Thomas A. Edison are shown in the Kochhaus.

Food and Drink

Cheeseburger in Paradise – A casual outdoor bar on a veranda between Front Street and the ocean. Hearty burgers, good onion rings, and a great atmosphere.

Hula Grill – A lovely beachfront restaurant in the heart of Kaanapali Beach. A beach bar with potent drinks and a vibrant atmosphere. Definitely try the Coconut Shrimp. Located at Whaler’s Village Kaanapali.

Kimo’s – A popular bar downstairs, and a solid fish and steak restaurant on the veranda above the waves, offering stunning sunset views.

Pacifik ‘0 – A well-maintained oceanfront terrace restaurant with inventive American-Asian cuisine. Especially beautiful at sunset. A jazz combo plays on Friday and Saturday nights. You can catch them via webcam.

Lahaina Nightlife

Hard Rock Cafe – The classic hotspot. Long lines outside, inside they serve thick hamburgers and rock music.

Moose McGillycuddy’s – A loud, lively bar upstairs with a veranda. Good rock bands on weekends starting at 9:30 p.m.

Old Lahaina Luau is a Hawaiian festival, recreated for tourists, but in a very romantic setting and with an excellent hula show. Ulalena is a  spectacular artistic dance and music show depicting the history and mythology of Hawaii.

Beaches and Activities

The best beaches are located north of Lahaina: the kilometer-long Kaanapali Beach, the beautiful bays of Napili and Kapalua, and the secluded Honokahua Bay, which is ideal for snorkeling. Beyond Kapalua, in the far west of the island, lies D.T. Fleming Beach Park, a wide, often nearly deserted stretch of sand. This long, sweeping palm-fringed bay was even named the best beach in the USA in 2006. However, be aware that high waves can occur here in winter.

Water Sports

At Lahaina Harbor and the hotels along Kaanapali Beach, you’ll find everything you need: jet skis, parasailing, sailboats, and catamarans for snorkeling or romantic dinner cruises.

Skyline Ecoadventures

Get your adrenaline pumping with ziplining, where you zip along steel cables over canyons and forests. Four-hour excursions depart from Kaanapali. Advance booking is required.

Shopping in Lahaina

Front Street is lined with shopping malls: Lahaina Center, Lahaina Market Place, Lahaina Cannery Shopping Center, etc. The quality of the souvenirs is rather questionable, but with patience you can find something to your personal taste in the countless galleries, perhaps printed fabrics from Tahitian, a wonderfully kitschy hula doll, or Chinese jade jewelry. On Friday evenings, local artists exhibit their work on the lively Front Street.

Booking a hotel in Lahaina

Hotels and resorts in West Maui are open, with options for booking in areas surrounding the historic town center. Average prices for a double room are around $846 per night, with budget-friendly options found as low as $233. Popular choices include:

Purple Haze of Maui
Purple Haze of Maui on Flickr by Alex

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