A relaxing Vacation Retreat in Tortola

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TORTOLA, BVI – Most cruise lines have ships that visit  Tortola but only the small-ship cruise companies such as Windstar, Seabourne and Star Clippers tend to stop at Virgin Gorda and Jost Van Dyke. Ships usually tender passengers ashore in the harbor of the pretty capital of Road Town. A road around the 54 sq km island was completed in the early 1980s and, with a line of taxis offering round-trip tours, it’s relatively easy to explore.

Tortola Cruise Port

Road Town 

What we would probably consider a village, Road Town is not most people’s idea of a capital city. Along Main Street, five minutes walk from the pier and yachting marina at Wickhams Cay, many of the traditional, Caribbean wooden houses have been restored and house several shops. There is a lively crafts market, where you’ll find brightly colored mobiles, driftwood napkin rings and other fun items. On the waterfront, the landmark Pusser’s Pub, an attractive gingerbread-style building, offers English food and the Pusser’s Painkiller, a notorious rum cocktail.

Island Tours and Beaches

If you’re not after isolation, for a whole beach experience  go to Cane Garden Bay, where Rhymers restaurant serves  tasty seafood, makes great barbecues and provides showers, towels and some water sports facilities, including windsurfing, especially in November’s perfect conditions. Some ships offer excursions on open-air safari buses, which include a stop at the beach. Local companies organize boat and snorkeling tours and sailing trips from the pier in Road Town.

For a walk with wonderful vistas, visit the Mount Sage National Park, where you can hike along  a rain-forest trail. On the way back, stop at Sky world for a 360-degree view of Tortola and the surrounding islands.

Cane Garden Bay

Virgin Gorda

The tiny but beautiful island of Virgin Gorda lies 20 km from Tortola and plenty of boats go there from Road Town’s pier, docking at Spanish Town. On the other side of the small shopping plaza is the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, where you can eat and admire the view at the Bath  and Turtle Pub. 

Stone Bay Virgin Gorda
Stone Bay Virgin Gorda by Alex

The Baths

The most popular attraction here is The Baths, in the Devil’s Bay National Park,  a magical beach where gigantic boulders have formed grottoes and salt-water pools. An easy trail runs through it all. Ships often offer excursions to the Baths, or you could negotiate with one of the taxi drivers at Spanish Town for a round-trip fare there. Alternatively, you can take a  taxi to the island’s best beach, Josiah Bay, a good place for some  excellent snorkeling.

Josiah’s Bay
Josiah Bay by Alex on Flickr

Arriving at Jost Van Dyke is like stepping into a time warp, a clutch of houses in a bay surrounded by green hills, and goats grazing in the scenery. A water taxi will take you round to the blissful beach at White Bay.

Tortola Long Beach by  Alex on Flickr

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